Iconic bombshell Marilyn Monroe has been garnering much attention in 2012, in part, sadly, because this year marks the 50th anniversary of her death. So far she has been the subject of the official poster for the Cannes film festival, several TV shows and series, and a plethora of museum exhibitions and art auctions. This month, MAC released a collection featuring the famous sex symbol, with the packaging consisting of photos from a session known as "The Black Sitting" shot by Milton Greene in 1956. According to Greene's wife at the time, Amy, "Milton made this black velvet womb. Velvet was draped over chairs, they must have cornered the black velvet market on 7th Ave…There
is something about black velvet that is very sensuous and very rich." I think this sensuality is exactly the vibe that MAC was trying to bring out in the collection, based on their description. "Pure platinum Hollywood glamour. Channel the legend's luster & sex
appeal in a colour collection distinctively Marilyn. It's everything you
need to capture the MM look."
Perhaps it is everything you need for the Marilyn look, but only if you were quick enough to snatch it before it sold out online and in every brick and mortar store. Unfortunately, I was not as fast as others and only managed to snag an eye shadow and lip gloss. 🙁
Here are Preferred Blonde shadow and Little Rock lip gloss.
The lipstick kiss inside the boxes was a nice touch.
Here are the some of the other items from the collection with different images, sniff.
There was a Beauty Powder (highlighter):
Five lipsticks (this one is called Deeply Adored):
And two blushes, this one is called Legendary:
(images from bellasugar.com)
I think MAC chose wisely in terms of the images used for the packaging. Of all the movies and photo shoots Marilyn starred in, the Black Sitting seems to capture all of her facets at once – the come-hither sexiness and womanly glamour, to be sure, but also her child-like innocence and vulnerability. Additionally, the starkness of the black-and-white photos hints at her inner turmoil, and reminds us that 50 years later, it's not totally clear whether her tragic early death from an overdose was accidental or intentional. (Wow, sorry to go into pretty morbid territory there). Anyway, I thought this was a nice collection – it didn't knock my socks off, but it was tastefully packaged, and I think Miss Monroe herself would have approved of the colors.
Did you manage to get anything from the collection?
This palette by brow guru Anastasia, called She Wears It Well, didn't catch my eye initially.
(image from sephora.com)
However, I became intrigued once these pictures surfaced of flash cards that were included with the palette. Not only do they give a description of the colors, they feature vintagey fashion illustrations depicting a particular look with a face chart on the opposite side to show you how to achieve it.
Anastasia used old Hollywood and the glamour of the 1930s as the part of the palette's theme, but she also wanted to keep it realistic and wearable for today's woman. "Classic Hollywood glam and modern moxie. Inspired by makeup designed to sculpt, adorn and beautify the women of the 1930s, Anastasia created her She Wears It Well Eye Shadow Palette to bring the drama and beauty of Hollywood's golden age to the modern girl."
You can see the mix of the two vibes in the first card, which combines a vintage photo with contemporary dress styles.
Here are the looks that can be created with the palette.
(images from mypinktasticlife.com)
I'm not sure which illustration I like the best – the sex appeal of the women depicted in Cat's Meow and Speakeasy, the sophisticated elegance of Eyes and Dolls, the femme fatale vampiness of Night Owl, and the girlish fun of Cut a Rug are all pretty great.
I was curious to know who did the illustrations, and a quick search yielded the name Jason Shorr. Shorr, a Los Angeles-based freelance illustrator, graduated from ArtCenter College of Design’s
Illustration program in 2010 with a BFA in Illustration. He interned for Disney and worked extensively with the Princess and Fairies team there (does anyone else find that hilarious?) According to his Tumblr, for the She Wears It Well palette illustrations he was very inspired by the works of Rene Gruau – hopefully you recognize this is the legendary Dior illustrator whose sketch of the "New Look" became the star of not one but two recent Dior palettes.
Shorr also created this cover girl for the Anastasia palette, although it ended up not being used.
Some of his other work includes sketches of celebrities, like this one of Florence Welch wearing a McQueen gown to the Met Gala earlier this year.
This one of Madonna, amazingly enough, was created using an iPad.
Shorr also dabbles in fictional characters, like Effie from The Hunger Games:
And, of course, Disney characters. This painting of Maleficent is part of a Disney villains series Shorr is currently executing.
(images from jasonshorrillustration.tumblr.com)
Due to its easy-to-wear shades, the She Wears It Well palette seems to be quite popular – it's sold out at the Anastasia website – but for me, the real treasure would be the flash cards. I could definitely see them fitting into yet another exhibition that I have flitting about in my head. 😉
Which look do you like most?
I'm still trying to figure out why I didn't visit this museum when I was in London last year! I'm not sure whether the cosmetics are actually on display, but the Museum of London has a lovely online collection of late 19th-century and 20th century beauty artifacts. Here are a few of my favorites, in rough chronological order.
First is this electric face massager from around 1908-1912. At first glance it seems ridiculous that women back then would actually be rubbing this on their faces in the hopes of reducing wrinkles, but really, is it so different from the contraptions we have now? Thousands of women today (myself included), make use of the Clarisonic electric cleansing brush, which is essentially our generation's version of this face massager (although the Clarisonic is for deep cleansing rather than wrinkle reduction).
Up next is this incredibly charming "sunbathing powder", or what we know today as bronzer. I wish a company would come up with packaging as cute as this for bronzer! I adore the bathing suits. This object was manufactured some time between 1921 and 1950.
I was fascinated by this WWII-era face powder because while it was made during the war, the design looks more 1920s rather than the 40s. According to the museum website, "A note on the box states that it contains
the same amount of powder as the original pre-war boxes.
Make-up was not rationed during the war, but it was extremely scarce.
This face powder would have been highly sought-after." Could you imagine makeup being difficult to purchase?!
Finally, we have one of the earliest examples of an attempt at cosmetics containing "natural" ingredients: Mary Quant foundation. This is from the 1970s and contained honey, almond oil and wheatgerm oil. I like the vintage apothecary vibe of the jar, from its shape to the font – reminds me of C.O. Bigelow.
(images from museumoflondon.org.uk)
So what do you think of these? Which one is your fave?
Prime Beauty Blog posted about these new lip balms a while ago and I was instantly smitten. Retro packaging? Check. A profile for each of the girls? Check. Yummy flavors? Check. What's not to like?
Silly Lips is the brainchild of Leila Larsen, who began experimenting in her kitchen six years ago to make the perfect lip balm. As for the origin of the girls that appear on the packaging, "[Larsen] asked her closest friends, Tracy, Bekah and Katie, what their favorite flavors were and then she named the balms after them."
Let's meet them, shall we?
First up is Tasty Tracy. "Tasty Tracy is a true exotic beauty. Her love of the beach matches her sunny disposition and free spirit. She may be laid back but she’s full of life. Make sure you are ready for some fun in the sun with Tasty Tracy…" The flavor is peach coconut.
Next we have Kinky Katie. She is "the ultimate temptress…she’s quirky, outspoken and plays by her own rules. Her stunning looks and captivating charm is an irresistible combination. Be prepared to surprise yourself with Kinky Katie." The flavor is vanilla mint.
Finally, we have Bangin Bekah. "Bangin Bekah is always having fun…her beauty and radiant energy always draws a crowd wherever she goes. Dancing is her middle name and music is her life. Get ready to rock the night away with Bangin Bekah!" Of the three, this balm appeals to me the most because of the delectable-sounding strawberry flavor.
(images from sillylips.com)
Admittedly, we've seen this sort of retro/pin-up girl packaging before (see Benefit, The Balm and Too-Faced), but I do like that these girls are based on real people, and each personality has been translated into lip balm form. Maybe I can befriend Leila Larsen and have a balm named after me. 😉
What do you think of these?
As I write this, I'm wearing Deborah Lippmann Mermaid's Dream nail polish (shown above – excuse the messy cuticles!) I bought it in part because it's so pretty but mostly for the name. I touched briefly on my lifelong love of mermaids last year, but that was just the tip of the iceberg. When I was little, I had the movie Splash memorized verbatim, and I begged my mom to make me a mermaid costume for Halloween that copied Madison's awesome red and gold tail exactly. When adults asked me when I wanted to be when I grew up, instead of giving a normal answer like a doctor or teacher, I immediately responded, "A mermaid!" I thought my obsession had abated as I grew older, but the themes of this year's summer collections brought it back full-force – along with the Animal Planet special on whether mermaids exist (I was completely mesmerized by it). So I wanted to follow up on the lure of the mermaid by rounding up their appearances in beauty packaging and advertising.
Anna Sui released these delightful bags and blotting sheets in 2010.
(images from global.rakuten.com)
The brand then launched the Glittering Mermaid collection last year (how this slipped through my radar is beyond me – I would have been all over this!) I especially adore the pedicure kits, which are housed in tins featuring frolicking mermaids.
(website images from harajuju.tumblr.com and kaboodle.com, eye gloss image from cloverbeautyinn.blogspot.com, tin image from hittingthepan.onsugar.com)
Anna Sui isn't the only company to make use of these mythical creatures in their packaging. Here are some more examples.
1 – Too-Faced Pure Bronze Mineral Bronzer
2 – Too-Faced Mermaid's Treasure set
3 – Benefit makeup bag
4 – Tocca body wash and moisturizers – the packaging has since been updated and sadly no longer includes mermaids!
5 – Nivea Soft body cream designed by Josep Font – the girl is supposed to be a mermaid wearing a turban made of starfish
6 – Vintage silver compact, circa 1930s
7 – Urban Decay Clean and Sober makeup remover
8 – Harajuku Lovers G of the Sea perfume
9 – Uptown Soap Co. Sugar Lily Soap
Mermaids also loom large in beauty advertising, dating all the way back to the early 20th century.
Ad for bath salts:
(image from timespastshop.com)
Lancôme, 1956:
(image from hprints.com)
I particularly enjoyed these ads for Dusharme hair cream, which the company branded the "pearl" of hair creams – it's interesting to see the mermaid illustrations change over time. From 1954 and 1956:
1959 and 1961:
(images from ebay.com)
I was tipped off to Ducharme from the blog The Lost City of Atlanta, which, if you love mermaids you really need to check out. Not only does it reference one of my favorite Futurama episodes, it's chock full of mermaid-related information, from ads to historic accounts of mermaid sightings to fashion. It hasn't been updated since last year but I'm hoping the author will start writing again!
Anyway, oddly enough, mermaids were also used to sell hair products to men. Funny how in 1934 "water's bad for [his] hair", but by 1969 hair gel that was "activated" by water was the way to go.
(images from ebay.com)
Mermaids were popular for suntan lotions and potions, as in these Dorothy Gray and Guerlain ads from 1947 and 1939, respectively:
(images from hprints.com)
Some contemporary examples mermaids in beauty advertising are this 2011 catalog from beautyhabit.com (which appeared in the summer exhibition) and this postcard for MAC's 2006 Lure collection:
And, of course, some pop tarts couldn't resist dressing as mermaids to hawk products:
(images from stylefrizz.com and ontheredcarpet.com)
But perhaps the most intriguing (and certainly most elusive) image of mermaids comes from a Stila paint can that was released to celebrate the opening of their counters in Copenhagen, which, as you may know, is home to the Little Mermaid statue in honor of Hans Christian Andersen's book. It was a mermaid rendered in Stila girl style and I can't remember the color of her tail, but I think she had blonde hair. I have looked high and low for a picture of this paint can and have come up with nothing, though I KNOW I saw it many years ago. But perhaps, like mermaids themselves, this Stila can is just a figment of the imagination. It makes me sad for 2 reasons: one, this paint can might not actually exist, and two, it means I'm completely losing my mind.
Some questions for you: Do you like mermaids? If so, did you watch the Animal Planet special? Which of the items/ads above is your favorite?
So, was everyone excited for the season 5 premiere of Mad Men? I have to admit that I don't watch the show, but I'm still intrigued by Estée Lauder's two-piece collection. It includes a cream blush and lipstick, outfitted in pleated gold cases inspired by the company's original 1960s designs. The outer boxes have a swirly, ultra-feminine floral motif in pale blue and gold.
(images from esteelauder.com)
I wanted to see whether this collection had any relation design-wise to the company's vintage packaging to so I did a little research. As these examples show, pleated gold did figure prominently in Estée Lauder compacts from the '60s.
(images from juliasbeadedjewelry on etsy.com and artfire.com)
It's okay that the Mad Men collection echoed Estée Lauder's chic '60s packaging, but I would have liked to see an exact replica of a real compact from their archives, rather than a new design that was vaguely inspired by older pieces. Anyway, while it's lucrative to have product tie-ins to a hit show at any time, it's especially fitting that the company chose this season to introduce the collection. Recent issues of Lucky, Vogue, and Elle magazines feature the retro trend that rocked the spring 2012 runways.
Elle did an especially long feature with this style (thanks to my H. for scanning all these!)
The gingham in this picture reminds me of MAC's Shop/Cook collection.
So Estée is right on trend.
The thing that's sticking in the back of my head, though, is this article at The Gloss. Writes Jamie Peck, "[T]his leaves me a bit ambivalent. On the one hand, I love the cat’s eyes, curvy figures, and red lips of 1960s style. On the other, I’m wary of mindless nostalgia for an era that was actually pretty terrible for women in a lot of ways, ways Mad Men examines with unflinching honesty. Much like the men who see Don Draper and go out and buy a Brooks Brothers suit in an effort to be like him (i.e, tortured and constantly lying?), I worry some women might be taking the utterly wrong message from the show if thinking about Mad Men gets them in a happy, makeup-buying mood and not a gutted, 'this shit’s not fair, why won’t they let Joan fulfill her intellectual potential?' mood. Then again, it’s totally possible to appreciate an era’s aesthetic beauty while acknowledging that said beauty is tied to some very problematic history. I just wish that sentiment had been present anywhere in the press release." Like Peck, I do think it's possible to enjoy the '60s look (and packaging design, of course) while remembering that that time period wasn't exactly enlightened in terms of how women were perceived. I mean, that's kind of my point in getting into collecting vintage compacts – while the objects are beautiful in and of themselves, they act as an historical reminder that women didn't always have the rights they have now.
But I think the thing that really prevented me from buying the collection, however, was that these were vintage-inspired from actual Estée Lauder designs. Don't get me wrong, I love retro-looking packaging. As I noted earlier, however, I think the company could have dug through their archives a little more thoroughly – they could have taken an amazing design from the '60s and recreated it.
What do you think? And do you watch Mad Men? Am I missing out?
(image from a MAC email)
In keeping with the optimistic spirit that pervades the first week of spring, I present to you the Vera Neumann collection for MAC. "Brilliant butterflies, flashy florals and gorgeously geometric graphics…A colourful collaboration between M·A·C and the artist known worldwide as Vera, who merged fine arts with linens, murals, textiles and silk scarves in her punchy, painted patterns. Now in shades plucked straight from her most lavish prints, M·A·C Vera embraces the luxe, lighter-than-air spirit that delivers the kind of startling, look-at-me statement that defines what it means to be an instant classic." The colors are definitely Vera-inspired, but what interested me the most were the Pearlmatte Face Powders, which feature the artist's signature ladybug perched on what appears to be the edge of one of her wildly popular scarves. I picked up Sunday Afternoon:
With flash:
Despite being a pretty big design/art enthusiast, I have to admit I wasn't familiar with Vera Neumann's work. An artist turned textile designer, Vera's somewhat kitschy, colorful prints were household staples from the 1950s through the '70s.1 (I imagine she was sort of like the Orla Kiely of her time.)
From what I gathered she was best known for scarves:
(images from artfire.com, cherryrivers.blogspot.com, and curiouscrowvintage on Etsy)
And a wide range of kitchenwares:
(images from yorkshiregalhomeshop, hotcoolvintage [both on Etsy], thevintagetraveler.wordpress.com, and thamesandbrass on Etsy)
Note: These aren't necessarily the best images that came up, but I was determined to show authentic, vintage work by Vera rather than the ubiquitous reproductions found nowadays! Anyway, I think my favorite works by her are these cheerful sun prints she created for the 1964 World's Fair.
(image from ellenbloom.blogspot.com)
Getting back to the MAC palette, I thought I'd include some examples of the ladybug that accompanied her signature.
(images from sixballoons.blogspot.com, retrorenovation.com, vintagedetail.blogspot.com, smilesgowitheverything.com)
"A ladybug means good luck in every language," she explained about her signature motif. While I think it's great that MAC worked it into some of their collection's pieces, I think they could have done more for the outer packaging given the enormous wealth of prints and patterns to draw from. Maybe they just couldn't get the licensing to use her prints on the packaging, but I'm doubtful given how many companies have churned out Vera collections. In any case, this powder is quite charming and will make a nice piece for a spring exhibition.
What do you think, both of Vera's work and the MAC collection?
1For a great summary of her work and life, check out this post. And if you're really into Vera, buy this book.
Happy Friday! I thought I'd round off this V-day week with a quick post on some very cheerful lip balms to keep your pucker in tip-top shape for smooching your beloved. ;) Thanks to Beautifulwithbrains and BritishBeautyBlogger for bringing my attention to these.
I've always admired Soap & Glory's witty product names and clever copy, and these lip balms fit right in. A Great Kisser balms come in Chocolate Cherry, Juicy Peach and Sweet Coconut flavors and feature a smiley, retro-looking woman on the packaging.
(images from soapandglory.com)
They remind me quite a bit of Benefit's earlier items, like the Roadside Attraction palettes.
Then we have Love & Toast's Pucker Up tinted lip glaze set. I was vaguely familiar with the line as it's made by Margot Elena (who also does the design for Tokyo Milk, the most beautifully packaged bath and body line I've ever seen), but I thought the collection consisted only of bath and body items. I was wrong – apparently Love & Toast dabbles in makeup as well, as these lip glosses demonstrate.
There's also a lip butter sampler set that I'd love to get my hands on:
(images from loveandtoast.com)
The prints on all of these are wonderful – they work great on the items themselves, but I could see them making awesome gift wrap too!
So what do you think? Which design is your fave? Naturally I can't choose…I definitely want all of them!
I was perusing The Balm's website for a post on some of their newer creations (Meet Matte, Nude 'Tude palettes) and I stumbled across these. I'm not sure why they're not up at Sephora but they should be. Not only are they cute representations of film's famous Bond girls, they have funny names.
(images from perfumania.com)
I don't think they're meant to be exact reproductions of Bond girls (except for Ima Goodkisser, whose white bikini getup is identical to that of Ursula Andress in Dr. No) but they spot-on '60s Bond girls.
I'm not going to go into a lengthy essay on the feminist (or unfeminist) implications of packaging like this, but I do want to mention the topic. Some scholars have made the argument that Bond girls are feminist icons (see the book Shaken and Stirred: The Feminism of James Bond), or at least, not the symbols of patriarchy they appear to be on the surface. However, these particular illustrations seem to make the girls eye candy and nothing more. Notice that the men, although relegated to the background, are leering at the girls, their gaze ever present. Plus there's the issue of putting these women – who arguably have been seen over the years as mere accessories – on an accessory itself.
All my feminist leanings aside, I'd still argue that these are harmless and fun. These retro items always makes me wonder who did the illustrations!
What better way to kick off the official start of holiday parties and shopping madness than with this boozey highlighter from Bobbi Brown? While Bobbi has dabbled in special edition packaging before, I believe this is the first time a design has actually made it onto the makeup itself.
Love the 50s-style shaker and glass – very Mad Men, no?
Up close - I like to think that little line at the bottom of the glass is a partial outline of an olive:
With flash:
While it's not as intricate as some patterns I've seen (see Chantecaille's butterfly eyeshadows) this is a fun design and lends itself perfectly to a shimmery body highlighter.
Hope everyone has a safe and sane Black Friday. 🙂