- Digitization – website redesign, professional object photography, and collections management software that allows a searchable database of all objects to be published online;
- DEI initiatives – hiring of BIPOC and LGBTQ+ consultants, writers and historians;
- Research – subscription fees to various archives/trade journals and fees for external researchers (as needed);
- Preservation – purchase of archival storage materials;
- Operating expenses – annual professional membership dues, blog and domain name renewal costs.
Ishizaki Miku, An Inlet, c. 2011
Addiction, Eyeshadow Palette in Trust Me, fall 2018
Hello, if you’re still out there! Not that anyone is waiting with bated breath to see where I’ve been, but I figured I’d give a brief update. My absence was, unfortunately, not the planned blogging break I intended to have, but what I’m suspecting was the flu. And if it wasn’t, it was easily the worst cold I’ve ever had. I’m starting to feel better after a week of praying for death, so hopefully I’ll be back to blogging in a few days. Thanks for staying with me. 🙂 (And get your damn flu shot!)
Catching up on links from the past two weeks. I didn't plan on taking this past week off from blogging, but last weekend I enjoyed a pre-Thanksgiving/belated birthday celebration with my parents and didn't get a chance to prep any posts. Hopefully I can stay on top of everything this week.
– Sephora's cool new concept store opened with much fanfare, while K-beauty go-to Peach & Lily announced a series of in-store shops at various Macy's.
– Still can't wrap my head around how this new hack for undereye bags would be effective.
– The latest hair trends include hair strobing (as with makeup, isn't this just highlighting?), sunset hair and macaron hair. As for nails, keep them warm and cozy with a cable-knit mani.
– Beard ornaments are so 2014. Guys, try a glitter beard instead.
– Another beauty-related health hazard has reared its ugly head.
– Amazing.
The random:
– This piece at XO Jane really resonated with me, for obvious reasons.
– The bad-ass award of the week goes to this woman, who completed a college exam while giving birth.
– If you have anyone on your holiday shopping list in need of new underwear, might I suggest these bacon-scented undies? Or how about this Golden Girls-themed set? (Seriously, WTF?)
– Rolling my eyes so hard at this.
– In tattoo news, I can't believe so many people willingly signed up to get a mystery tattoo, while this very brave model received no fewer than 11 tattoos illustrating various styles throughout history. If a real tattoo isn't your thing, you can check out the newly opened Tattly shop in Brooklyn, or try out these lovely winter-inspired temporary tattoos.
Now for the important stuff: who's ready for Cyber Monday? Any deals calling to you?
Happy Halloween! I thought I'd share some spooky beauty items and ads I've stumbled across the past few months. (These will be offered without much commententary since it's been a long week and I'm too tired/lazy.)
Estée Lauder Shimmering Spider compact from the Glitter Bug compact collection, 2000:
(image from ebay.com)
B. Beauty Dead of Night palette, 2014 (swatches available at Cosmetic Candy). As far as I know this brand is only available at Superdrug in the UK.
(image from superdrug.com)
Sterling silver Volupté spider web compact, circa 1930s:
(image from ebay.com)
*Church Lady voice* Could it be…SATAN? Why yes, there is "a bit of Satan" in these Evening in Paris Satin Finish lipsticks, according to the ad (1957).
(image from girl-o-matic.tumblr.com)
The devil also makes an appearance in this ad for Cutex, 1954:
(image from pinterest.com)
Cutex had a few ads fitting for Halloween, like this one from 1941. The shade names sound like they'd be more appropriate for Christmas, however.
(image from vintagegal.tumblr.com)
There's also this one from 1966:
(image from flickr.com)
Another witchy ad, this time for "Contoure" Make-up, 1947:
(image from pinterest.com)
Finally, here's a cute Elvira-esque Stila girl in from an email I got a few weeks ago. Looks like she's also rocking some Louboutins.
Hope you enjoyed these! I'm off to clean up…some staff members got into the Pumpkin Spice M & Ms I found at Target and thought it would be fun to feast on them among the decorative gourds.
I didn't blog for about a month, but I was still collecting links along the way! Much to catch up on.
– Did you all see me quoted in this post on crazy lipstick colors over at Huff Po? I was so excited!!
– Here's a fabulous piece at XO Vain about the influence of Riot Grrrl on one author's concept of beauty.
– The latest beauty trend: oil pulling. Anyone try it?
– I'm wondering if this $100 shampoo is worth it. Probably not but naturally, I'm curious.
– I'm not so curious, however, about Death Scent, a cologne that smells like rotting flesh.
– Brightest Bulb in the Box takes Jezebel's article on contouring to task, and I am grateful. In another beauty takedown, Meli at Wild Beauty assures us that lead in our lipstick is not, in fact, killing us.
– Apparently the average woman spends 55 minutes a day getting ready. Is it bad that my routine is even longer than that?
– The New York Times reports that people are spending up to $150 for rare, discontinued shades of nail polish. As a collector I'm not sure why this is news.
– Woot! Let's hear it for the older ladies! Charlotte Rampling is NARS's newest muse, while Jessica Lange will be the face of Marc Jacobs Beauty. It's about time.
The random:
– If you're not watching Broad City, you really should. Actually you can't now because the season finale was last week, but I'm sure you'll be able to find episodes somewhere. Read praise for it here, here and here. Also find out what fragrance each of the girls would hypothetically wear at Rouge 18, and check out an ode to Ilana's style.
– More on the pop culture front: FX renews Archer for two more seasons (yay! especially since they'll go back to being spies) and there's also a Pee Wee Herman movie in production. Oh, and here's another interview with one of the Curator's heroes.
– We've suffered some art casualties in the past few weeks. A cleaning woman threw away some very valuable art she thought was trash, while this moron broke a statue while trying to take a selfie. Sigh.
– Locally, this is probably the best news I've heard, like, ever. Now if we can only get rid of Flowermart, the St. Patrick's Day parade, and all the other things throughout the year that make living in Mt. Vernon hell, that would be sweet.
– There is a new Babo but shockingly, I am passing on adding him to our plushie family. His little face doesn't look nearly as cute as usual because of the makeup, plus I'm not a KISS fan.
What have you been up to?
Collection Highlights
Happy Saturday! It's been a week since I've posted anything and if you're wondering where I've been, I was visiting the merry old land of Oz – party planning, that is. My niece's 4th birthday party is coming up and it's going to be a Wizard of Oz theme! Since my little pea brain can only handle so many non-work activities, this week I spent the hours I normally would on the Makeup Museum at Pinterest and Etsy instead, obsessively researching ideas and starting to order party supplies. I think I've got it all figured out, so I'll be back Monday. I'll leave you with my chief party inspiration. 🙂
(image from the tomkatstudio.com)
When I did the group portrait of the Makeup Museum's Chanel palettes, I realized I never posted about the lovely Coromandels de Chanel, which was released all the way back in the fall of 2005. Meant to evoke the lacquered Chinese screens lovingly collected and displayed in Coco Chanel's Rue Cambon apartment, the palette consists of three horizontal bands of bold color imprinted with gold patterns. Here is the full description from Vogue Australia. "Imagine a journey, a very long journey, from the Ming
Era to today…Starting in Asia, at the heart of Imperial China, it
continues along the Indian coast of Coromandel until reaching Paris, rue
Cambon, and ending at the apartment of Mademoiselle Chanel. The link between the two worlds and eras resides in the singular art
form of Chinese screens: Coromandels. Objects of passion for Coco
Chanel, these famous lacquered screens-extremely fashionable in the 18th
century – have now inspired Heidi Morawetz and Dominique Moncourtois in
the creation of the star product for Autumn 2005: Coromandels de
Chanel…With its antique frieze, olive branches and decorative scrolls 'engraved' in the pressed powder, Coromandels de Chanel resembles a
screen fragment in the black frame of its laquered case. The precise and
delicate motifs that decorate the surface take up the relief and colour
of an illustration on one of Gabrielle Chanel’s screens. With this creation, past and present have been brilliantly combined with
art and innovation. Coromandels de Chanel not only draws from the
immense heritage of Mademoiselle, it is also a modern breakthrough.
Using laser technology, an electronic arm controls a laser beam to
polish, colour and create 'incision' motifs on the compact
powder. In line with the original screens, the palette offers a matte
satin texture for a velvety skin result that is more powdery than shiny
and as luminous as ever."
In a quote from one her biographies, Coco Chanel states: “I’ve loved Chinese screens since I
was eighteen years old…I nearly fainted with joy when, entering a
Chinese shop, I saw a Coromandel for the first time…Screens were the
first thing I bought.” Over the years she amassed 32 screens, and her apartment at 31 Rue Cambon contained 8 of them. She used them as wallpaper and also to conceal doorways. "Mademoiselle Chanel hated doors," Chanel archivist Odile Babin stated in an interview with NPR. "She hoped that by
placing the [the screens] in front of the door, her guests might not remember to
leave." (Coco Chanel used the apartment only for entertaining and work – she actually slept and took meals at a private suite at the Ritz across the street.)
As for the artistry of the screens themselves, the Chanel website has this to say. "The Coromandel lacquer technique
emerged at the end of the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), in the Hunan
province, in the heart of China. The major themes include mythology,
scenes of imperial life and love of nature, which bestow a spiritual
dimension upon the art form."
The descriptionof the palette says that the patterns were taken after one of the screens owned by Mademoiselle Chanel. While I couldn't find a picture of an exact match pattern-wise, the overall feel and colors are similar. Below are some of the screens installed in her magnificent Rue Cambon abode.
(images from thecoveteur.com)
(image from hookedonhouses.net)
While I didn't see a match for the designs on the screens, you'll notice that the gold Greek-like pattern on this coffee table does match the one in the middle of the Coromandels palette.
(images from chanel-news.chanel.com)
So we have an explanation for the inspiration behind the palette, and the design does in fact align very closely with the beautiful screens owned by Coco Chanel. However, I'm puzzled as to why the company decided to release this collection in the fall of 2005, when the pieces shown in the runway and couture shows displayed no Asian/Chinese influence whatsoever. Unlike the more recent Byzantine and Versailles palettes, which were released in conjunction with particular fashion collections, Coromandels had nothing to do with what walked down the runways for both the fall 2005 ready-to-wear and couture collections. Even the makeup wasn't remotely related to the theme of Coromandels.
Some pics from fall 2005 ready-to-wear:
(images from vogue.co.uk)
And here's some from the couture show:
(images from vogue.co.uk and vogue.com)
(images from elle.com)
Perhaps it's because this palette was released before Peter Philips took over as Creative Director of Makeup in 2008 (and sadly, will be stepping down shortly). Prior to his leadership, seasonal makeup collections were devised by Heidi Morawetz, director of the makeup creation studio, and Dominique Moncourtois, international director of makeup creation. While the palette is certainly inspired, it may have been more timely had it been released in 1996, when Lagerfeld designed his Coromandels evening dresses.
(image from thecityreview.com)
Still, I can't begrudge Chanel too much in their lack of cohesion between the fall 2005 makeup and fashion collections. Les Coromandels is a gorgeous and creative palette, and remains one of the Curator's favorites from Chanel.
What are your thoughts?