This exhibition was inspired by the "under the sea" trend that hit the runways for the spring/summer 2012 fashion collections – specifically, the ethereality and mystery contained within the dark depths of the sea as well as the play of light on the ocean. I loved Armani's concept of moonlight reflecting off the sea's surface, Versace's more literal take on the underwater theme, and McQueen's mind-blowingly gorgeous representation of ruffly anemones and seaweed in dress form, which appear to be swayed by ocean currents, along with a breathtaking dress dripping with coral. Here's the trend as rounded up by Marie Claire:
But I was most taken with Chanel's spring 2012 collection, which Vogue described as "an aquatic wonderland of gleaming white stingrays and sea horses adrift amongst coral branches and shells on a sandy sea bed. [The] models…looked like magical deep-sea sirens, from the pearls scattered in their hair to the sea-urchin shells that propped up the heels of their sandals." Here are some of my favorites from this collection.
First, the catwalk, which was totally amazing – if I had a real space for the Museum I'd do something just as extraordinary.
The accessories:
This dress, whose tendrils remind me of seaweed or even jellyfish tentacles gently flowing underwater:
And finally, the subdued makeup with pearl accents:
(images from tooclothesminded.com, vogue.com and fashionindie.com)
I was also intrigued by Van Cleef and Arpels' Atlantide collection, which featured a host of ocean-inspired pieces such as these beautiful mermaid and jellyfish pins.
But what really blew me away was the mini site the company set up for the collection – it perfectly articulates the feel I was going for. Here are some screenshots of it (but you should really visit the site directly to get the full effect):
(images from vancleefarpels.com)
Of course, while I wanted to bring out an otherworldly, ethereal mood, I couldn't resist throwing in a few "fun" pieces as well – MAC's cheeky Hey Sailor! collection and a couple of Too-Faced's summery Quickie Chronicles capture the more carefree side of summer. I also chose pale blue paper for the labels, which I thought went well with the themes.
So that's what was going on in the Curator's noggin when setting up this exhibition. Enjoy!
The top shelf, plus images from Vogue magazine that I was completely smitten with.
Middle shelves:
Bottom shelf:
Now for the individual shelves. Starting at the top, from left to right.
MAC Hey Sailor! collection:
Some vintage Stila summer items:
Mamechiyo for Shu Uemura cleansing oil and foundation case. This was a tough one, as the Mamechiyo collection deserves its very own exhibition.
Pucci for Guerlain:
Second shelf, from right to left.
Paul & Joe Midsummer Nights:
Chantecaille Coral Reef palette:
Armani summer 2012 palette:
Too-Faced Quickie Chronicles palettes:
Third shelf, left to right.
Estée Lauder Sea Star bronzer:
Dior eye shadow palette in Swimming Pool:
MAC To the Beach items:
Beautyhabit.com catalog and Paul & Joe bronzer:
Bottom shelf, left to right.
Lancôme Bamboo bronzer:
Sisley L'Orchidée palette:
Chantecaille Protected Paradise palettes:
Anna Sui Eye and Lip palettes:
So what do you think? Please leave feedback in the comments!
Some very exciting beauty-related exhibitions have been cropping up! First up, Shiseido had a two-day exhibition in honor of its 140th (!!) anniversary at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris this past weekend. The exhibition is called Un Trait Plus Loin ("A Streak Further", I think) and features beautifully designed ads from a range of time periods.
A few highlights:
(images from blog.birchbox.com, ca.fashionmag.com and luckymag.com)
They hung some of the ads from lanterns, which is unique but doesn't necessarily allow a close look.
(image from beautylish.com)
In conjunction with their anniversary, Shiseido is selling a limited-edition bottle of its Eudermine facial lotion with the original design from 1897. And if you buy that, you'll also receive limited-edition blotting papers designed by Ayao Yamana, "a legendary Shiseido designer from the 60s and 70s." I must admit I am tempted!
While I do love me some vintage makeup ads, there was an exhibition in Hong Kong that sounded even more amazing. "An Ode to the Complexion: The Art of Skincare and Beauty Objects from the 18th Century to the Present", devoted to Guerlain items and other treasures, opened at shopping mall Pacific Place on May 23rd. It was brought to my attention by my mother, who tore out the ad for it she spotted in a travel magazine during her recent two-week trip to China and Hong Kong. How fortuitous! I don't think I ever would have known about it otherwise and it just happened to be going on while she was there (unfortunately she didn't have time to check it out).
(click to enlarge)
What's really awesome about this exhibition is that it offered makeup demonstrations to recreate looks from the different decades of the 20th century. Such a great idea, I will definitely steal it. 🙂
Most of the items were powder boxes and compacts, and belong to two French collectors, Anne Camilli and Jean-Marie Martin Hattemberg (Hattemberg is the author of Lips of Luxury).
(images from frenchmay.com)
(images from butterboom.com)
Some real-life pictures. Not to toot my own horn, but I think the labels I create for my exhibitions are a little more informative and visually appealing.
Météorites! I'm pleased to say I own one of these: the black, crystal-encrusted Perles Impériales on the right in the middle row. I also recognize the bee-adorned Perles d'Or in the same row on the left.
(images from my-lifestyle-news.com)
I'm a little shocked at the care for these objects, or lack thereof. I can't be 100% sure from the pictures, but it looks like there are no protectors on top of the open powders, thereby exposing them to dust. The horror! I mean, I don't put the plastic coverings on top of my items since they're only open for a few minutes while I photograph them for exhibitions, but if my items were to be in an official exhibition sitting out for days or weeks, I would demand some type of clear covering so as to protect the powder.
The exhibition also included lipsticks. It's an interesting way to display them – I always have the lipsticks upright in my exhibitions, but to have them all laying down in neat little rows is a good way to do it too.
(image from allmadeup-nowheretogo.blogspot.com)
As you can imagine, I was really excited about these two exhibitions. I hope to see more of them, and maybe they will be in the U.S. so I might actually have a chance of seeing them! And of course, maybe curate a few of my own exhibitions. 🙂
I was browsing the Metropolitan Museum of Art's ancient cosmetic collection and I couldn't help but notice how similar the design of some of the pieces were to today's makeup. Sure, the ingredients have vastly improved and technology has advanced, but the basic design for some objects remains the same. I thought I'd share a few examples.
1. Swivel containers
Overall I prefer makeup in more traditional compacts that open bottom to top, but swivel palettes add a luxurious touch. Who knew they may have been rooted in ancient Egpytian cosmetic containers? The top row in this picture contains pivoting containers from roughly 1500-300 B.C. The blue one (middle) is in the shape of a column capital and has several compartments, while the one on the right is made of ivory and was most likely used to store powder or blush. (You can read more about the last two here and here). The bottom row shows what I think are some contemporary counterparts: Dior Cristal Boreal lip gloss pendant from 2009, Le Métier de Beauté Kaleidoscope eye shadows, and Hourglass Cosmetics Illume Creme-To-Powder Bronzer Duo.
(top row images from metmuseum.org, bottom row images from newjuless.blogspot.com, nordstrom.com and sephora.com)
2. Cosmetic boxes with drawers
I always thought palettes with sliding drawers were pretty cool – they're like jewelry boxes but with makeup. These boxes in the top row of the picture below (all Egyptian) are made of wood and have compartments for storing various cosmetics. The middle one is from the tomb of an artist and dates from 1279-1213 B.C., while the more elaborate one on the right dates from 1814–1805 B.C. and was found with a mirror and 4 ointment jars. Today, we have Lorac's Private Affair palette, Urban Decay's Book of Shadows, and Bobbi Brown's Holiday 2011 palette, all of which feature drawers reminiscent of their ancestors.
(top row images from metmuseum.org, bottom row images from sephora.com, ragingrouge.com and bobbibrowncosmetics.com)
3. Makeup bags
The Met also has an ancient leather pouch meant to store cosmetic implements. While most makeup bags today are rarely made of leather, (companies tend to opt for nylon or plastic), some brands employ faux leather to give a more luxe feel. Case in point: Bobbi Brown's Chrome brush kit from 2009.
(images from metmuseum.org and amazon.com)
I find it so interesting that certain design principles for cosmetic tools from thousands of years ago still exist today, albeit in more technologically advanced ways.
Which item from the Met shown here is your favorite?
Welcome to the Makeup Museum's 2012 spring exhibition!
I couldn't choose between green and pink paper for the labels, so I ended up doing both. Also, you may notice that Dior's Garden Party palettes are strangely absent, but I am saving those for a capsule exhibition that I will be posting shortly. In the meantime, enjoy the main spring exhibition. 🙂
Now for the details.
Top row, left to right, starting with the MAC Liberty of London collection:
Stila "Look of the Month" palettes and Ephemeral shadow trio:
Lisa Kohno for Shu Uemura cleansing oil:
Highlights from the Paul & Joe "Meow" collection:
Second row, left to right, starting with Chanel 4 Fleurs de Chanel eye shadow quad:
Clarins Cotton Flower palette:
Pop Beauty Sunblossom Bronzer/Blush:
Highlights from the Nathalie Lété for Bourjois collection:
Third row, left to right, starting with Milani Illuminating Powders in Hermosa and Amber Nectar:
YSL Palette Pop. In the 3 years that passed since I wrote the original post on it, an image of the original card the palette was based on finally came up in Google images. Glad I decided to re-open the search for it.
Chantecaille Les Papillons eye shadows and makeup bag:
Lancôme La Roseraie palette:
Bottom row, left to right, starting with RMK's 15th Anniversary cheek palettes:
Guerlain Cherry Blossom palettes:
Vera Neumann for MAC:
Stila Spring 2006 lookbook and Sakura eye shadow trio:
Well, what do you think of this exhibition? Tell me in the comments!
Woven: Textiles in Makeup Design explores the ways in which cosmetics appropriate clothing materials. Delicate lace, nubby tweed and soft cashmere are just a few of the designs that have been imprinted onto makeup items in recent years. Conflating powder and fabric, these items fuse the normally separate spheres of makeup and textiles.
There has always been a significant relationship between beauty and fashion. Makeup is needed to finish the overall look at runway shows; many couture houses have their own beauty lines; and fashion designers collaborate with cosmetic companies for limited-edition collections. Then there's the idea of "fashion for the face" – that makeup should be just as stylish and expressive as the clothes one wears. The items in this show take the concept literally by embossing patterns used for clothing onto makeup.
I hope you enjoy the first Makeup Museum special exhibition!
(Top shelves, left to right)
Chanel Tweed Effect blush and Physician's Formula Cashmere Wear Bronzer:
Burberry eye shadow and lipstick:
Shu Uemura Prima palette:
Dolce and Gabbana Sicilian Lace palette:
(Bottom shelves, left to right)
Chanel Ombres Tisseés palette:
MAC Jeanius eye shadows:
Dior Lace-Effect Powder:
Armani Jacquard eye shadow palette:
Exhibition notes
Inspiration: I was originally inspired by this blurb in InStyle Magazine from March 2011. Yes, nearly a year. That's how long this idea has been in my head!
Logistics: This was one of the smaller exhibitions I've put together, yet it took the longest. Since it's the first non-seasonal exhibition I've done I had to put a bit more thought into it. And due to the position of the shelves, photographing exhibitions in this space is always difficult.
Curation: There are so many more things I could have included РI would have loved to have purchased the Revlon and Valerie Beverly Hills palettes that the InStyle page mentions. Chanel's Pink Lam̩ was originally in included in the exhibition, as well as Stila's Perfectly Peach tweed-texture clutch and the black satin Brilliant clutch palettes, but I only have so much space. So I picked out what I thought would be most interesting and in keeping with the theme (which is why I ultimately ruled out Stila's purse palettes, as only the outer packaging involved textiles and not the makeup itself). Also, I'm not a fan of Gwyneth Paltrow but that white suit really is the best example of Armani jacquard that I could find.
Paper/design: If you look closely, you'll notice I selected a woven-textured paper for the labels. A big thanks to the husband for laying them out, helping me with the exhibition poster, and for letting me move his stuff off the shelves temporarily. 🙂
So exciting! There's a new beauty exhibit at the Center for History in South Bend, Indiana called "Gizmos, Corsets & Concoctions: Our Obsession with Health & Beauty." From the website: "Gizmos, Corsets & Concoctions: Our Obsession with Health & Beauty explores some of what has been experienced over time in the pursuit of health and beauty. Seeking to look or feel better, people have willing to imbibe, don and endure many interesting cure-alls throughout the years. A wide variety of medicinal and cosmetic offerings have been available, some hawked by fast-talking peddlers and others provided by highly respected institutions. Whether looking for better health, treatment for ailments, or transformation into the current pinnacle of beauty, people have turned to medical sources, even the 'magic potions' of sideshows. Some did the trick; others caused more harm than good."
The exhibit contains beauty ads from the 19th and 20th centuries, contraptions like a "permanent wave" hair-styling machine from the '30s, and even a replica of a doctor's office with elixirs and tonics. Too bad I'm not going to Indiana any time soon! I'd love to see it.
(via The Beheld)
(image from centerforhistory.org)
As I always say, better late than never. That's pretty much the motto of the Makeup Museum. :P Here's the holiday 2011/winter 2012 exhibition.
Starting with the top shelf and moving left to right, Dior Crystal Boréal Pendant:
Wong Kar Wai for Shu:
Guerlain Météorites Impériales:
Second row, Armani Madreperla palette:
Guerlain Parure de Nuit powder:
Third row, Clé de Peau Holiday Vintage palette 2009:
Chanel Lumiere Sculptée Highlighting Powder:
Bottom row, Paul & Joe holiday 2009:
NARS Hanamichi eye shadow palette:
I also set up a little holiday/winter fun auxilliary exhibition. This one is devoted to parties, presents and frolicing in the snow. 🙂
Top shelf:
Bottom shelf:
It's taken me forever to get this year's fall exhibition up, but that's only because I wanted to make it more museum-like than previous ones. I've added labels for all the items, and included some pictures as supplements – thanks to the husband for laying everything out! I also decided to focus on the main exhibition space and one of the auxilliary spaces rather than trying to fill all three. I hope you like this new format!
I'll start with the top shelves and move down. Paul & Joe Fall 2011:
Dior Mitzah:
John Tremblay for Shu cleansing oil:
Stila Bohemian Beauty:
Armani Python palette:
Maison Lancôme palette:
YSL Opium palette:
MAC Art of Powder palettes:
Dior Lady Dior palette:
Here's a capsule exhibition on the Chanel Lumieres Byzances palette.
Bottom shelf:
Some details:
I really love the bronzey paper the husband suggested for the labels – so perfect for fall.
Welcome to the Museum's summer 2011 exhibition! And happy solstice. 🙂
Here's one of the auxiliary exhibits:
Auxiliary exhibit No. 2:
And here's the main exhibit:
Hope everyone is having a lovely summer and enjoying the longer days!
I'm pleased to see that the topic of beauty is slowly becoming a legitimate field of study. It hasn't been looked at as critically or academically yet the way fashion has, but we're getting there. Recently I came across several things that I found to be very encouraging.
Musingonbeauty posted about this book. While I'm a bit chagrined someone else came out with a coffee table book on makeup, I'm not completely beat down – there's plenty of room for more makeup books!
Then I read in the June issue of Lucky magazine that there's an exhibition called Beauty Culture that's going on at the Annenberg Space for Photography. The exhibition "examines both traditional and unconventional definitions of beauty, challenging stereotypes of gender, race and age. It explores the links between beauty and violence, glamour and sexuality and the cost (in its multiple meanings) of beauty" and "encourages a social discussion about the allure and mystique of the pursuit of female beauty, as well as its cult-like glorification and the multi-billion dollar industries that surround it." A little different than what I'm trying to do, but it's exciting to see a dialogue being started about the impact of the beauty industry.
Finally, I stumbled on the coolest blog on vintage compacts while researching an inquiry I received. It is so incredibly detailed and gives a thorough history of early cosmetic companies, many of whom don't exist anymore.
So, yay! It's nice to see that makeup is finally being recognized as something more than to paint your face with – there truly is history and art involved, which is one of the things I strive to point out through the Museum.
(image from amazon.com)